Long before the Los Angeles Times arrived to canonize Yerord Mas, Chef Arthur Grigoryan was building one of the most original Armenian-American food projects in the city.
The viral basturma brisket sandwich now comes layered with grand cru Gruyère mornay, one of the most luxurious possible pairings for cured and smoked meat. Fresh baked pita and sharp pickles keep the richness in balance. At $38, the sandwich has become a lightning rod online, but reducing it to sticker shock misses the point entirely. This is not trying to be Langer’s #19. It is Arthur building a distinctly Armenian-American point of view through technique, sourcing, and memory.
The stuffed mussels were one of the most memorable dishes of the night. Eating them by hand and digging through the spiced rice felt deeply transportive. The beef tartare with lettuce cups carried an intensity of seasoning that lingered long after dinner. Many of the spices are imported from Syria and elsewhere, and the flavors hit with a warmth and depth that feels almost euphoric.
The real standout, though, was the Denver steak. Arthur’s Armenian riff on steak au poivre rooted in classical technique but entirely his own. Pickled red pepper and Armenian brandy push the dish somewhere unexpected. The sauce alone deserved to be scraped clean from the plate.
What makes Yerord Mas exciting is not just the sandwich virality or social media hype. It is watching a chef evolve in real time. From a backyard pop up in Sherman Oaks to a ghost kitchen to a permanent restaurant in Burbank, Arthur represents a new generation of LA chefs building entirely on their own terms.
For years, Glendale and the surrounding Armenian food scene have been overlooked or flattened into clichés by much of LA dining coverage. Places like Yerord Mas did not suddenly appear overnight once legacy critics started paying attention. The groundwork was already being laid quietly, plate by plate, long before the broader restaurant world caught up. Kebabs will be offered soon and that is reason enough to come back.