Stepping into Zuni Café feels like entering a San Francisco legend. The gleaming copper bar top catches the light, flanked by low wooden chairs with sturdy backs and worn leather cushions that carry nearly 50 years of stories. Since 1979, this Market Street treasure has redefined California cuisine by blending French and Italian influences with local, seasonal flair. Its oyster bar alone is worth the pilgrimage, serving medium-temperature oysters that strike a perfect balance of acidity and salinity. The peppery mignotte sauce is lifted by textbook ciseler shallots, finely diced jewels that melt into the dish in a nod to French finesse.
Zuni’s menu is a masterclass in simplicity and precision. My second course of French fries arrived with strong aroma and full flavor, perfectly seasoned with salt and rivaling any Parisian bistro. Bloody Marys, ordered by the dozen, fueled the festive buzz as a nearby diner exclaimed, “This is so good!” It is no wonder Zuni has earned James Beard Awards for Outstanding Restaurant (2003), Outstanding Chef (2004), and Outstanding Service (2018). From the iconic roast chicken, salted for days and paired with bread salad, to silky gnocchi, Zuni embodies California cuisine at its finest. Alongside Chez Panisse, it helped define the movement itself.
What sets Zuni apart is its heart. When I requested a to-go cup for my iced tea, I expected a polite decline. Instead, the manager smiled and said, “Eat well, my friend,” before handing me a coffee cup. That small gesture of hospitality lingered. The high fees that cover wages, a San Francisco staple, help sustain a team in excellent spirits. Their warmth matches the lively energy of the dining room. Unlike Hillstone with its forty-plus locations, lauded for consistency in cheeseburgers and sushi, Zuni stands as a single-venue treasure with one of the highest PPAs in the country. For those who secure a table, the experience feels like a rare privilege.
Zuni surpasses Hillstone’s polish with artisanal soul and a legacy that has influenced menus around the world. Its open kitchen and iconic brick oven are more than fixtures. They are the heartbeat of San Francisco dining. As I left, a grinning man in full-frontal nudity strolled by in the sunshine, a quintessential San Francisco farewell that sealed Zuni’s quirky charm. Nearly 50 years in, Zuni Café is not just a restaurant. It is one of America’s most legendary institutions, a place where every bite and every smile tells a story.